If you want to capture a scene as the human eye perceives it, then white balance should be on your radar. White balance refers to the process of removing or neutralizing color in your images. Keep adding warm color too balance the photo out. Since photographers often want to produce images that look natural, white balancing involves carefully adjusting your camera settings or editing tools to counteract these color casts. In general, natural light only requires correction along the blue-yellow spectrum, but certain types of artificial lighting may produce a noticeable color tint, in which case you’ll need to correct for that, too. Photographers refer to different color temperatures using the Kelvin scale. Warmer color temperatures, such as those produced by a candle flame or a setting sun, have a low Kelvin value, such as 3000 K. Neutral color temperatures, such as midday sunlight, have a medium Kelvin value – around 5000 ,they prevent you from capturing accurate, true colors in a scene. If you want to photograph a beautiful red sunset exactly as it appears to your eye, you’ll need to neutralize any color casts. While it’s always important to start by color correcting your photos, you can sometimes enhance images by deliberately pushing the white balance in the wrong direction. Note that you can also use an “incorrect” white balance to exaggerate the conditions of the scene. Adding cool hues will give images a shady or night effect, while adding warm hues will give images a sunrise or sunset effect.

JPEG~ is what many cameras set as their default output, so if you’ve never adjusted your camera’s image quality options, are compressed at the moment of capture; therefore, when you take a JPEG, you instantly lose some image details

HEIF~ image files are smaller than JPEGs yet offer similar or even increased quality. In other words, HEIF files take up less space than JPEGs, yet they look equally good

TIFF~ Stands for “Tagged Image File Format,” and it’s another file type that’s commonly used in the photography industry, are usually uncompressed, so they’re extremely high quality and offer the opportunity for extensive post-processing

RAW~ store all of the information originally captured by the camera – which means that adjustments to white balance, exposure contrast, saturation, and sharpness an all be easily applied in image-editing software after the photo has been taken

DNG~ Digital Negative, was created by Adobe in an attempt to provide a standard RAW file that can be used by all manufacturers and cameras

PNG ~ Designed in the ’90s as an improvement on the GIF file format, PNG files are reasonably small, relatively high quality, and displayable on browsers

GIF~   perfect for internet use. Lossless compression means that files are small, but image quality is not sacrificed, and GIF supports transparency, GIF also allows for animation

BMP ~on the larger side as color data is saved for each individual pixel without compression. As a result, BMPs produce a high-quality file that is great for printing but not ideal for sharing photos on the web

PSD~ is used by Adobe Photoshop to save data. The big advantage of the PSD is that it allows you to store edits using individual layers rather than on the image itself

EXPOSURES~-3  -2 -1 ,1, 2,3

1)Darken the room and position your subject against a black background.

2)Allow enough background area for the number of different exposures you intend to make. When you

are using a ground glass camera, mark off on the glass

3) Set up the electronic flashlights so the minimum amount of illumination falls on the background itself.

4)turn off all room lights and make your first exposure. Then, without advancing the film, move your subject to the next position for the second exposure

5)Each type of action requires a different camera technique, but because of the short duration of light from electronic flash

6) Most electronic flash units have a maximum flash duration (the length of time the light is on) of about 1/800th second, and a minimum flash duration as short as 1/20000th second

7)Ghost images can occur when existing light and a slow shutter speed are used in conjunction with electronic flash

8)Flash photography, outdoors at night, can produce very underexposed photographs if not taken properly.

9)Rarely do you find such reflective surfaces outside, so some light is lost.

10)Because so much light is absorbed in these large areas, it may not be uncommon to open up your aperture two or three f/stops

11) Tests should be conducted before shooting in large, indoor areas, such as gymnasiums and hangar bays or outdoors at night, to determine which flash, camera, and film combination produces optimum results

12 Subjects such as these benefit by being isolated from the background, but you may get more interesting lighting by using the unit off camera on an extension cord.)

13)Indoors, where there is little existing light, you have no problem because the electronic flash itself stops the action

14)interesting multiple exposures can be made with only one or two electronic flash units. Multiple exposure pictures

15). Repeat this procedure for each image you want to record on the film.

16)however, outdoors in daylight, you may encounter ghost images.

17). Close foreground details become very overexposed, and it is better to exclude them.

18) Continual application and refinement of the principles of composition and lighting can greatly enhance the quality and aesthetic value of your photography

19)Whether using available light or flash photography, notice what results the direction, intensity

20)Each and every time you pick up a magazine, book, or newspaper or watch TV or see a movie, you are exposed to various composition and lighting techniques